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Getting the formulation right for acne treatment in Indonesia Listen with ReadSpeaker

Getting the formulation right for acne treatment in Indonesia

Acne is a chronic, inflammatory skin condition that occurred due to the clogging of hair follicles with oil or dead skin cells. It causes spots and pimples, especially on the face and commonly occurs during puberty. It remains a global problem and affects three out of every four people around the world.

The global acne treatment market exceeded USD 5 billion in 2018 and continues to rise due to numerous factors like fluctuating hormone level, unhealthy lifestyles and poor eating habits. While it is not dangerous, it can be persistent even after treatments and leave skin scars resulting in unsightly physical appearances.

Beyond aesthetics, acne sufferers are found to have a much higher likelihood of having major depression, which appears to correlate with higher levels of anxiety and depression faced by Generation Z. In a hot and humid market like Indonesia, topical acne products are the most common solutions to fight acne conditions.

Getting the formulation right for acne treatment in Indonesia
  • Excess oil production on oily or combination skin, which forms the majority skin type among Asians
  • Hair follicles clogged by oil and dead skin cells
  • Bacteria, which are usually carried through humid air combined with pollution
  • Excess activity of androgens, which is usually caused by common Indonesian fried food or excessive snacking such us peanuts and high-sugar snacks
  • Whiteheads (closed plugged pores)
  • Blackheads (open plugged pores)
  • Small red, tender bumps (papules)
  • Pimples (pustules), which are papules with pus at their tips
  • Large, solid, painful lumps beneath the surface of the skin (nodules)
  • Painful, pus-filled lumps beneath the surface of the skin (cystic lesions)

At present, most acne treatment products in Indonesia use the two following products: salicylic acid and retinol. Salicylic acid which is a common ingredient arguably has its downsides or side effects. While it may help correct the abnormal shedding of cells, its ineffectiveness may include solubility, decreases the skin’s pH and makes the skin dry as well as possible irritation.

Retinol too has its debated downsides such as skin irritation, photochemical and hydrolytic instability. It is difficult to use in the formulation of products as it can only be used on night cream products.

To overcome these negative effects, do consider using ingredients and formula for your acne treatment products that have been clinically proven to effectively improve acne conditions, decrease the follicular bacterial population and provide anti-inflammatory benefits.

An available solution by DKSH is to use succinic acid, an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid described by the empirical formula C4 H6 O4, an alternative for salicylic acid but with better benefits. It has antimicrobial activity, antioxidant and enhances mitochondrial activity in skin cells. These are beneficial for products claiming to boost skin re-energizing and revitalizing effects.

Meanwhile, for pimple and bacteria treatment, Sytenol A has similar effects to retinol on gene expression within the skin. Studies have shown that topically applied retinol and bakuchiol exhibit similar effects on the gene expression profile of skin cells.

The same study also formulated bakuchiol into a twice-a-day facial application shows after twelve weeks of treatment that there is significant improvement not only for acne healing but for wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, firmness and overall reduction in photo-damage. All these without the undesirable side effects of retinol like redness, peeling and dryness.

As global acne treatment and products continue to grow in the coming years in Indonesia, businesses need to be aware of what are the latest ingredients available in the market and how they will be able to serve increasingly discerning and better-informed consumers.

“Pop” over any questions you may have on the acne treatment products market and how we can help you reach more consumers in Indonesia.

Sources:

Ricardo Fajar

About the author

Ricardo Fajar Sudarman joined DKSH in December 2015 and has been leading Personal Care Ingredients Business Line, Business Unit Performance Materials ever since. He is based in Jakarta, Indonesia.